Bezel setting

Pave

Pave set­ting is where small stones encrusted along the ring’s sur­face give the illu­sion of a solid dia­mond sur­face rather than a metal band. Unlike chan­nel or bezel set­tings, a pave set­ting uses only tiny beads or minute prongs to hold each stone, min­i­miz­ing the appear­ance of the metal while max­i­miz­ing the illu­sion of free-​​standing diamonds.

Most pave set­tings are con­structed from white gold or plat­inum in order to fur­ther min­i­mize the metal, though yel­low gold can add a mea­sure of tra­di­tional elegance.

As an engage­ment ring, a pave set­ting incor­po­rates a larger cen­tral stone above the encrusted dia­monds, typ­i­cally in a high Tiffany set­ting. Round and princess are the most fre­quent shapes for cen­ter stones because the remain­der of the set­ting adds suf­fi­cient bril­liance to the ring with­out need­ing a fancier cen­ter stone. In some cases, the cen­ter stone may be a col­ored dia­mond or other gem­stone that is height­ened by its glit­ter­ing surroundings.

While most cen­ter stones are also set with prongs, bezel set­tings are also pop­u­lar because they high­light the stone away from the setting.

Bezel

The bezel is shaped into the size and shape of the gem and then sol­dered into place on the metal of the jewelry.

The pre­pared stone is then placed into the bezel and the metal is pressed down over the edges of stone, lock­ing it into place. A cabo­chon stone, a gem­stone that is not faceted, usu­ally relies on the shal­low angle cut into the side of the stone which helps the metal to stay in place.

With a clear faceted stone, such as a dia­mond, a shal­low groove is cut into the bezel itself. The gir­dle or widest part of the gem stone is placed in the bezel, which is then pushed down over the girdle.

The pres­sure of the bezel over the edge of the dia­mond keeps it in place. Bezel set­tings for dia­mond rings are also called rub-​​over set­tings; they have a dia­mond com­pletely sur­rounded by a pre­cious metal band which fas­tens the dia­mond securely into place.

Bezel set­tings use a type of ele­vated col­lar which wraps the rim of the dia­mond in a com­plete metal edg­ing. This type of dia­mond rings set­ting is the most secure fas­tener for the stones. The bezel set­ting also pro­tects the dia­mond bet­ter than other types of set­tings, such as the prong setting.

Channel

Chan­nel set­ting is a method whereby stones are sus­pended between two bars or strips of metal, called chan­nels. Often when set­ting small stones and the bars go in a lin­ear line with the design it is called chan­nel set­ting, and when the bars cross the lines of the design, it’s called bar set. The idea is the same, though.

The sides are made just a bit nar­rower than the width of the stone or stones to be set, and then, using the same burs as in prong set­ting, a small notch, which is again called a bear­ing, is cut into each wall.

The stone is put in place in those notches, and the metal on top is pushed down, tight­en­ing the stone in place. The proper way to set a chan­nel is to cut a notch for each stone, but for cheaper pro­duc­tion work some­times a groove is cut along each channel.

Also, since the metal can be very stiff and strong, this is a sit­u­a­tion where a hand tool, called a “ham­mer” which is like a jack­ham­mer, but jew­elry sized, is used to ham­mer down the metal, as it can be dif­fi­cult to do by hand.

Then, as always, the metal is filed down and fin­ished, and the inner edge near the stones cleaned up and straight­ened as necessary.

As with all jew­elry, there can be many vari­a­tions of chan­nel work.

At times the walls will be raised — some­times a cen­ter stone will be set between two bars that rise high from the base ring — or the chan­nel might just be cut directly into some sur­face, mak­ing the stones flush with the metal.

Regard­less of style, it is still con­sid­ered chan­nel setting.

Prong

Prong

Prong set­ting is the sim­plest and most com­mon type of set­ting, largely because it uses the least amount of metal to hold the stone, thus show­ing it off to its best advantage.

Gen­er­ally it is sim­ply some num­ber of wires, called prongs, which are of a cer­tain size and shape, arranged in a shape and size to hold the given stone, and fixed at the base. Then a burr of the proper size, is used to cut what is known as a “bear­ing”, which is a notch that cor­re­sponds to the angles of the stone.

The burr most often used is called a “hart bur” that is angled and sized for the job of set­ting dia­monds. That bear­ing is cut equally into all of the prongs and at the same height above the base.

Then the stone is inserted so that it goes into all of the bear­ings, pli­ers or a pusher are used to bend the prongs gen­tly over the crown of the stone, and the tops of the prongs are clipped off with snips, filed to an even height above the stone, and finished.

Usu­ally a “cup burr” is used to give the prong a nice round tip. A cup burr is in the shape of a hemi­sphere with teeth on the inside, for mak­ing rounded tips on wires and prongs.

There are as many vari­a­tions of prong set­tings as there are stars in the sky — 2 prongs up to 24 or more, many vari­a­tions involv­ing dec­o­ra­tion, size and shapes of the prongs them­selves, and how they are fixed or used in jew­elry. But the method of set­ting is gen­er­ally the same for all of them.

Setting

Setting

Stone SettingOur expe­ri­enced set­ters are skilled at a vari­ety of set­ting tasks, from sim­ple prong set­tings to the more dif­fi­cult forms such as chan­nel, bezel, and pave.


Gem SettingOur clients have learned to expect only the high­est qual­ity set­ting work from us.

This means your gem­stones will be set straight, evenly, and securely.


Final fin­ish­ing takes keen eyes and steady hands. At Eliz­a­beth Jew­elry, Inc. our pol­ish­ing experts are skilled in all aspects of the process, from lap­ping and buff­ing to the appli­ca­tion of antique, rhodium and sur­face finishes.

It is this care­ful atten­tion to detail that ensures that every item that leaves our fac­tory reflects our high stan­dards of quality.

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